I am in the same exact spot in my install as blackbird and am somewhat confused. Would this be all I need to get my Jeep wired and running, or would I still need the ballast resistor and computer? Again, I apologize up front, I know all of this info is more than likely already on the forum, but welcome your experience. The best of the ‘Clones’ is the MSD, best cap, best rotor, best coil, best module, best trigger of the Clones. The ‘Cheapest’ of the ‘Clones’ you can trust is the Mallory. But shouldn’t harm your engine and will be a ‘One Wire’ install. The remans will drop right in your engine, fit correctly and have the correct gear, ect.
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Ignition Solutions – Spark-ignited engines requires a spark to initiate burning of the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. The spark in each cylinder is provided by a spark plug and is actually a flow of electrical current through the air and fuel vapor between the closely spaced electrodes of the spark plug.
Ballast Resistor Does anybody know what the voltage going in and out of the ballast resister should be? I know I asked before but is a resistor wire going into the ballast resistor normal? Also our new resistor seems to get quite warm…is this normal when new? The wiring going in and out seems fine. Also is anybody using an Accel supercoil? You know the big kinda boxy yellow one…does it have internal resistance? If so does that alter the requirement for an external ballast resistor or resistor wire?
With my ballast resistor in place and connected i have like 9.
Feeding the coil with 14 volts instead of 7 automatically improves spark intensity, improving throttle response, fuel mileage, and maybe even adding a bit more power, too. The average person thinks anything from the factory is automatically the best it can be, but real car people know new technology usually means improvement. Honest Ford guys will admit that the Duraspark system has not lived up to its name, and replacement boxes are even less reliable.
While original factory Mopar ignition boxes are good, the design for both the Ford and Mopar boxes suffers from an often overlooked, yet crucial design consideration. A magnetic pickup creates a signal when the rotating pole piece on the distributor shaft crosses the fixed magnet.
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Im working on a friends Chevy C I did a transmission swap. When I went to start it, it was running really rough. It wouldn’t stay running unless I kept my foot on the gas. I put in a carburetor kit, flushed the gas line, and swapped the tank. There was a lot of rust in the tank and carb. Its running two filters now, one after the tank, and one before the carb. There IS clean gas getting to the carb now. After that, I noticed it was getting a weak spark when I disconnected the coil wire at the coil.
The coil was also leaking oil.
So on to the installation which consists of a few simple steps: Headlight Wiring Harness Connection Note: The H4 style connector 3-wire 1. The connection shown in photo A supplies the control power to the two relays in the new harness.
Wiring issues here!! Restoring a 73 Charger Rallye (came w electric ignition, 4 prong ballast on firewall). Car had some major shorts at bulkhead, but is now starting and running after removing the “Amp Meter” circuit & connecting the alternator output directly to the starter relay. Ran new volt .
Post Reply I mow my lawn and find Chevys Posts: Resistance wire is a type of alloy with several uses, with some resistance wire being made from a range of alloys. Resistance wire receives its name because it works as a heating element and performs as a heating wire. As such, it is able to resist all flow of electricity, as well as the heat produced from electrical energy.
In addition to repelling heat, resistance wire is resistant to corrosion. Resistance wire is generally found packaged in a plastic bag and is available in a variety of lengths, including 25, 50, 75 and feet 7. Some resistance wire, however, is available on reels, in drum packs, and even on coils. Coils of resistance wire are generally used for larger sizes and lengths of wire. As a rule, all resistance wire must meet BS requirements. This means that the resistance wire must meet the specifications for all metallic resistance materials intended for electrical use.
If, however, the resistance wire has a diameter of less than 0. These specifications are set forth for bare and fine resistance wire used for electrical equipment.
All the wire was re-routed to relays, new fuse box and junctions under the glove box. All relay systems check out. Here is what I have, from a relay 85 goes to the starter 87 goes to the coil 86 to ground 30 to the white brown wire on the Lucas Starter relay At the coil I have the Black white wires which go to the Pertronic Igniter and to the tach.
I should mention that the following worked just fine until I improved things 1 buy a “generic” relay from the auto parts store, of the type used for driving lights, etc, and mount it on the right inner fender, nrear the other two relays. This relay is a small cube, about one inch on a side, with a small mounting tab. This circuit leaves the ballast resister in the circuit when the car is running, but bypasses it for starting, just like the original MG design.
Apr 14, · Ok, I’m checking my electronic ignition system on my 72 Duster, When checking voltage at the battery I got volts. When I turn the ignition switch on I get volts at input wire (disconnected from resistor) to the ballast resistor.
Now that same situation has started again, along with an intermittent flashing of my headlights, almost in synch with what a flasher unit would do. I am in the midst of changing the wiring harness, all new everything- alternator, starter etc. The headlights were working fine, but the tail lights, dash lights, turn signals etc were not hooked up to that point. I added much more load to the system, I figured the light bulb was not enough resistance.
Hence the use of a ballast came to mind. Maybe something else isn’t hooked up correctly. The flashing occurs after being ‘on’ for a few minutes, I removed by flashers and the tail light fuse but the headlight continued to flash. When I revved the motor up- the flashing stops for a few seconds but then continues. It does not follow a consistent rhythm. When I let the engine idle after being revved up- the lights remain constant but then start flashing. I figured it had to be a ground issue or a resistance issue due to the fact that the engine ran for about 15 seconds after the key was turned to ‘off’.
Sounds like the headlamp circuit breaker cycling. Something shorted in the headlamp circuit.
Originally Posted by dirtinla I understand how to wire up the 3 wire alternator. The number 1 wire goes to a resistor or dash light and is suppose to glow when not charging. That wire goes to a dash light.
MOPAR Micro-Processor IGNITION SYSTEMS. Digital Micro Processor Circuitry, EPROM Processor with Built in DEAD STOP Algorithm REV Limiter all designed and engineered IN HOUSE and every component is Proudly Made In USA!. Eliminates Ballast Resistor, 44KV Output on demand, Plug and Play, one simple wiring modification (Eliminate Ballast Resistor, Kit Included), stock mounting, .
Bolt this on and dump the ballast resistor forever! It is also very nice for use in older Mopar vehicles where you don’t want to mount a large ignition box to your firewall. This is the cheapest route I know of to obtain a powerful ignition system for your mopar. The Chrysler distributor wires from the pickup plug right into the GM module. The other two terminals on the module go to the coil. The bracket mounts the module beneath the vacuum advance to partially hide it and provide full rotation of the distributor for ease of timing.
Hiding it under the vacuum advance also helps to maintain a clean appearance. The bracket mounts to the bottom of the distributor using the original drain holes on the distributor. No drilling is required. Just file away any casting flash and tap the drain holes to bolt it on. This bracket can be used on both small and big block Mopar V8 electronic distributors. That is; , , , , , , , and It will not work on the Mopar slant 6 electronic distributor.
Where does my coil resistor wire go? Replaced the points with ignitor electronic module and flamethrower coil. It does not have a ballast resistor but a resistor wire. I can not find where this goes to connect to the other non coil end.
Some other tidbits available from AC Delco for wiring up a 10SI, is wiring package (for those 6 to 12volt conversions). This contains the terminal connector AND an extra resistance wire pigtail to connect to the ignition system (don’t use a ballast resistor if you use a resistance wire).
Updated from the Holley gold box ignition to a Pertronix unit, and it runs great with a jumper off battery positive, but don’t have enough voltage from the ignition switch to spark the coil. Pertronix said there is a ballast resistor in the system but I don’t know what to look for. The gold box drives the coil directly. If you think about it, The same thing would apply to the pertronix. The wire from the key switch to the gold box would now go to the positive coil terminal and to the pertronix.
The trigger from the pertronix would go directly to the coil. If you used the direct replacement or just swapped out the distributor, you still have to make sure the feeds are good. If I hook a jumper between battery positive and the coil, it’ll start and run just fine. When I hook up the wire from ignition, I’m only reading 9 volts. But with the switch off, resistance between the coil and the switch is. So the wiring is good, but I’ll have to do voltage drops to figure out the source of the draw.
The guys at pertronix said that there might be a ballast resistor built into the ignition switch to keep the coil from overheating when the engine is off and the key is on, but I can’t really tell. Thanks for the advice, I’ll get this thing back on the road one of these days.
Some people will tap off the middle post to get a 12V supply, though this is generally a bad idea – explained below: You can even tap off the “top” battery as well for another 12V circuit, but please note that the ground – for this circuit will not be the same as your bus ground: Because the grounds are different for this second circuit, this means that you can’t power anything with it that is grounded through it’s installation to your bus. The 12V circuit that this creates will always be on, you can make it be switched such as by the ignition switch by simply wiring it through a 24V relay.
This is generally a bad idea because it means your draw on your batteries is out of balance unless you match the two 12V circuits One battery will continuously lose more charge than the other and then be at a lower voltage.
A case study can be made with Ford and Mopar electronic ignition boxes from the ’70s. Honest Ford guys will admit that the Duraspark system has not lived up to .
Email Quick Tech The electrical system of an automobile is likely the system understood the least by most Mopar owners, but compared to late-model vehicles the electrical and ignition system of a classic Chrysler product is really quite simple. And while many chose to upgrade their cars with aftermarket ignition systems, or with a Mopar Performance electronic ignition kit, many of us still own and drive cars with a factory points-style distributor as well. All cars produced with breaker-points type ignition generally had a resistor of some sort in their ignition system.
Some brands utilized a resistor in the coil or a resistor wire hidden in the wiring from the ignition switch, but Mopar put their resistor or ballast resistor on the firewall or inner fender, causing some to misidentify it as a part of the charging system. In simple terms, the ballast resistor in a Mopar limits the amperage, or current flow, through the coil while the engine is running, thereby extending the life of the coil and breaker points of the distributor.
When the ignition key is in the start position, full current is applied to the coil and increases voltage to the spark plugs. In their electronic ignition systems Chrysler utilized a dual ballast resistor, again to extend coil life and provide a constant primary current, with the system also bypassing the resistor to apply full amperage to the coil during startup.
In either type of ignition system, points or electronic, the ballast resistor can be removed to increase secondary voltage to the spark plugs, but the long-term effects of removing the resistor differ between the two systems. An ignition system with breaker points will surely suffer from reduced point life if the ballast resistor is removed, as higher amperage can damage the surface of the points causing failure.
And while ignition coil life may be compromised without a resistor, the additional secondary voltage at the spark plug is increased which generally improves power. So does your application require a ballast resistor?
Relocated MAT sensor shown on Rusty’s air tube. Installed in the top of the intake manifold. Testing is the same as the CTS. Make sure engine is WARM.
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Tells module to retard timing at startup Four-pin connector Violet and Orange wires are from the distributor pickup coil Black wire is the pickup coil ground Green with tracer stripe is the coil negative terminal; the module controls spark with this wire Notice that a ballast resistor is used to drop the coil voltage to 9V when the vehicle is running ON , but this resistor is bypassed with a 12V signal from the starter solenoid when cranking START. FSJ Duraspark wire colors varied across the years.
Hopefully I’ve provided enough information for you to figure it out for your particular Duraspark model. Later I will convert to Weatherpack connectors. I cut a set of connectors off of one of my dozen spare modules that I’ll never need again. Wire colors on different modules vary.